Friday, January 3, 2014

Winter Sewing: The Janet Jacket Intermission

OK, I'm going to aim to be adult about this, the fact that my "finished" Janet Jacket is most definitely a muslin, and not the wearable kind. (Note: No photos at this stage. When I photo it next, it's gonna be done.)

The good news is that I've learned many things, most germane of which is that, if you use stretch charmeuse when lining a (drapey) woven, do not make the lining larger than the jacket. Lining patterns are drafted slightly bigger than the shells they line because one needs a bit of extra give in under-layer when both fabrics are woven.

Alas, when the lining is stretchy and, trust me, this stretch charmeuse has a reasonable amount of width-wise stretch, whilst sewing it gets MUCH bigger than the shell - especially if it starts out bigger to begin with.

I should have stopped, taken out the centre back seam of the lining, and cut off 2 inches of width. It probably would have been a reasonable work around. Instead, I persisted - wasting time in an effort to save time - and the finished garment is a mess.

And, just as relevant, let's be reminded that the upper back thing was a deal breaker at the outset. I knew that 2 days ago; I just opted to ignore it. I mean, seriously, the back neck is veritably sharpei.

I need to let this be for a week or so. I need to consider things with fresh eyes before I start again. And when I do start again, my plan is to:
  •  Treat this "finished garment" as the muslin it is - I'm going to triple check my measurements and pin etc.
  • Trace all of the pattern pieces again - the ones I worked from are a dog's breakfast.
  • Redraft the lining pieces - or simply decide to use the shell pieces to produce a lining that's the same size as the shell. Note: when cutting, I'll shorten the lining pieces slightly so that it will bag to the correct length.
On the plus side, I think I've got enough of the lining and wool crepe to give this another go. I was intending to use it for a matching bottom, but I guess that's not to be.

Live and learn people - time to follow my own advice and make that garment again.

8 comments:

  1. Oh damn! :-( Sorry to hear this, especially given how expensive the fabric was!! And all that work! :-(

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    1. I know. But I can't be all: "It's hard and I'm cool with it" and then not be cool with it. Happily, I have other jackets to wear :-)

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  2. That was really good lining information!

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    1. I know! I wish someone had told me before I started!

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  3. So sad . . . I feel for you!

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  4. Your production is fantastic. I'm procrastination big time. Well, at least you know what you know now. I always use bemberg. Because I never thought about stretch charmeuse. BTW, I have a shout out to your awesome knitting posts on today's blog entry.

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    1. That's how I have to look at it. At least I know now. And thank you for your lovely shout out Pam!

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