|Read on for info about why there's torquing at the left centre front. No, it's not about badly aligned closures, alas...|
Here are a couple more shots, on the ground, to show off the lines on something that isn't that wretched dress form. Why did I waste my money on that thing??
Look, I'm not done with the Janet Jacket. Well, I'm done with it for a while cuz I fucking hate everything jacket-related. But I'm going to crack this code eventually. Believe me. Because I can really see the potential. In fact, this jacket is vaguely wearable - if not up to standard - so I may even take it out for a couple of test drives, to further illuminate the issues.
Let's start with the good:
- I made this thing with barely a look at instructions (mainly cuz there are barely instructions to consider, but you get my point). I know how to construct a tailored jacket and I'm pleased by that.
- I do love stretch charmeuse and I'm going to persist with it in silk and synthetic versions.
- I've made a lot of alterations, over 3 "muslins" and the majority of them have improved the fit.
- I have encountered challenge after challenge and I have persisted calmly. That's the only reason we have anything at all to look at.
In a previous post, I discussed the sharpei neck issue and indicated that I had to remove .5 of an inch wedge from the centre back tapering at the shoulder. Um, that was not true. On reconsideration, I took out 1.5 inches of wedge. And I still ended up with this:
Do you see those bubbles of fabric? I'm starting to wonder if my problem is that I don't have enough fabric rather than too much - but I don't know how that can be because the sharpei issue is INCREDIBLY improved in this version for all of that fabric removal.
I'm also starting to wonder if my choice of drapey fabric and soft interfacing may be the cause of this. Maybe this jacket could do with a firmer material.
So while we're on the topic, let's talk about wool crepe:
The thing that makes wool crepe a dream to sew with makes it intolerable to tailor. I will not be using wool crepe on this jacket in the future. In fact, it's gonna be a cold day in hell before I use wool crepe on anything more tailored than a sheath dress from here on in.
Crepe is so malleable that it takes every suggestion of fabric manipulation and runs riot with it. It's so sensitive. It's got no backbone, no pun intended and it loves to wrinkle. I don't care if it has nice drape, writ large. It has crap drape on a tailored item where one needs structure to prevail.
On more mundane fitting topics:
- Do not, imagining yourself a class-act pattern adjuster, forget to take an inch off the bottom of your jacket front and facing pieces. OK, it would have been game over if I'd actually made these pieces an inch too short to begin with. But this "fix" required surgery, far into the process of jacket construction, and the end result is one side that moves slightly off-grain and torques the entire finished product.
- Also: As S. noted, when last she was over, after increasing the full bust depth by like a zillion per cent, I've got to take quite a bit of fabric out of the front princess seam above the full bust. That's what I like to call my small bust adjustment.
- And I've got to take about an .5 inch, somehow, off the back armscye. It's gapey.
- I've got to lengthen the arms by .75 inch.
There are no awards for making mediocre products, only the potential for winning with persistence.
Today's questions: What's up with the sharpei neck - do I need to take out another wedge? Is it fabric related? Is it something else? Can you share a sad tale of sewing meh-ness? Let's talk.