Saturday, February 4, 2012

Some Things I've Bought (And A Weather Lesson)

Ah, the online vortex of consumerist compulsion... Sometimes it's so fun to fall into your lure.

Winter is very drab. I can't complain of cold; I've worn my 3/4 sleeve spring jacket with the exception of 2 really freezing days. But what we sacrifice for warmth is sun. It's the way it goes in this geographic area. Intermittent high pressure systems (cold and clear), which tend to come from the arctic, allow the heat to bleed off into space at night, resulting in extreme daytime cold - but glorious sun. When it's warmer and more humid here, that warm air has come from the south; it brings insulating clouds at night. Clouds that do not dissipate in the day. The jet stream (as part of the La Nina effect?), with all its cold air, has mercifully stayed well north this winter and has completely missed us thus far. So we're living in the endless, damp, early November. Have I ever mentioned how depressing it is in November in Toronto?

Any Canadian reading that last paragraph is smiling right now. Admit it. All we talk about here is the weather.

All of this is a propos of justifying my latest purchases, online or otherwise. When the weather sucks, trinkets bring a metaphoric warmth.

You know about my vintage pattern foray. What a great experience that has been. Most recently I acquired simple, vintage blouse instructions online, by pdf:

Many of you have tried this pattern and the feedback has been good!

I'm going to add the item into the Spring Basics Palette cuz I think it will look great with culottes!

I also bought modern patterns, for example B5681 the Culottes challenge comparator.

On this topic, you may be aware that I intend to tailor a couple of suit jackets this summer. I already own this Claire Schaeffer pattern. But I do appreciate less conservative jackets, which is where this one comes in:

Decades of Style 3009

I have to be honest, while this modern take on a vintage pattern is totally appealing, and while I experienced prompt client service, the shipping mark-up charged by this independent pattern company strongly disinclines me to ever order from there again. In brief, I had a few (polite) conversations with a contact who explained every which way that they were not going to change the policy wherein sending a USPS package to Canada costs almost as much as the pattern itself. The times are changing peeps. MANY companies are starting to realize that it's unfair to make money on Canadian shipping - when they're not doing the same extortionate thing in their native lands.

Then there's my latest online fabric purchase moment:

Navy Modal - it's a beautiful, durable fabric. Clio sold me on this!

This sweater knit has been featured at length by Carolyn (Fabric Mart ambassador :-))

Fabric Mart has many interesting offerings, but 4 lbs of fabric cost $30.00 in shipping. That's as much as the discount fabric itself.

And, while we're on this topic - how is it that I go instantly from spending a half hour cleaning out scraps from and organizing my fabric cupboard to buying new stuff I'll barely be able to fit into it??

Look, I have a rationale: The sweater knit is to make the aforementioned magic blouse (it's not in the Spring colour scheme, but whatevs). And modal is something that you should buy whenever you can find it. Neither sweater knit nor modal are readily available in my city. And, the total cost still brought my fabric to under 15 bucks a yard. Nonetheless, the shipping has put me off, yet again. I have enough access to fabric locally that, next time I feel like going far afield, I'm most likely to take a trip to NYC and buy a whack of fabric from the garment district, rather than to incur charges that irritate me.

Finally, I bought one other item, RTW at a bricks and mortar store - a very unusual occurrence for me. As you know, I have need of slightly more conservative clothing in my current role, as I attend a few meetings a month of the most formal, professional variety. Holt Renfrew was having a sale and I got the following suit (note: I got mine in the richest navy, natch):

Theory Hydric Melora Collarless Jacket, image from Polyvore

Theory Jeldra Hydric Pants, image from Net-a-Porter

Oh, I know, rub it in my face how I said suits are so cliche, so old-school. But the early-90s girl in me just couldn't get the jacket without the pants. Even though I'm kind of on the fence about the pants. They're that low slung style that the young people wear. I had to order in a larger size from Calgary because I cannot bear to wear my pants tight in the ass. And the alterers will need to remove the front internal pockets (they add bulk) and shorten them by a very wasteful foot of fabric. No, I'm not altering them myself. Even though they will charge for alteration on sale merch, I have no interest in spending a whack on pants (on sale) followed by doing my own alterations.

The jacket fit me perfectly, PERFECTLY, right off the hanger. That's almost unheard of in my universe. So, till I can DIY clothier my own suits, this one will be an elegant alternative.

Note that I do not take a purchase of this financial magnitude lightly. But I do think formal wear (and that's what a suit is, after all) should be very well-made and perfectly fitted. Theory never fails on these fronts. I'm of an age and stage that I choose only to wear what looks and feels excellent. And I am tremendously grateful to have that ability at this time.

I can't wait to perfect a couple of fitted jacket slopers - at which point I'll be able to make my own suits in every format, with relatively luxe materials, likely for under 200 bucks each.

Lord, this post has taken me all morning to construct. I have tea at the Windsor Arms this aft (carb attack of the highest order, I realize) and skating with M tomorrow. How on earth am I going to make any headway on those culottes muslins this weekend??

So, what are your thoughts on any or all of the zillions of pics and links within this post? Let's strike up some interesting conversation.

Crazy Update: Man, I totally forgot about a whole other purchase I neglected to discuss. That's going to have to be the subject of another post. This day has to start sometime...

21 comments:

  1. That blouse is "oh my goodness" gorgeous. Where did you purchase it???

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    1. Faye: I linked to it a couple of posts back. It's online and it's 3 bucks: http://shop.bramcostpublications.com/Vintage-1950s-Magic-Blouse-Pattern-1106-SW-MAGICBLOUSE.htm. You have to get it!

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  2. I'm with you on the shipping charges. Decades of Style, Hot Patterns, any fabric. Just not worth it because it costs to much to get it to the UK.
    I'm very fond of downloadable patterns for this reason. I quite enjoy spending an hour sticking the pages together. Or much more than I do on spending inordinate amounts on shipping costs!
    And yes, you did have to get those fabrics. They are gorgeous.

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    1. Evie: Don't they realize it's just insulting? A pattern should cost 4 bucks to mail - max. That's what Decades of Style charges the Americans. So if I lived 2 hrs south (New York State), I'd have that charge too. It's not like there's any tracking on that package.

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  3. I love all your purchases. You have such great taste. I hope you get a lot of wear out of your suit. It's lovely! Have fun at tea!

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    1. Thanks E! I'm having a very "down on myself" kind of day. I think it's hormonal but it's so unsettling. I hope this takes my head out of it...

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  4. Oh yes, the vintage blouse will go great with the culottes! And I'm so glad you like the modal. I hate shipping even when I'm not particularly gouged - I have access to too many brick-and-mortar stores to pay shipping unless it is for something I really feel like I can't get elsewhere or the sale is that good.

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    1. I know! I think the modal will be put to some very good use. Like you, I don't have immediate plans for it. But when the moment strikes, it will be so nice to have it in the arsenal.

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  5. Argh shipping! I understand it if you're ordering from Australia or Europe, but from the States? Seriously? This is why I don't order fabric online. :P

    That being said, I just had to order a replacement part for our fish-tank filter, and while it was still annoying that the shipping is more than half the cost of the part itself, the Canadian shipping was only a dollar more than in-States would've been, and it does include a tracking number. /sigh.

    I definitely think a suit is something you can justify spending a bit of extra money on (not that I own a suit, mind you...) *and* paying someone else to alter. Alteration just terrifies me...

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    1. The alterations cost 40 bucks?!?! I almost told them to fuck off but remembered I'd already spend a fortune on sale, so I might as well just get things fixed the easy way. The pocket removal will be a bit more fussy than originally anticipated. (Not 40 bucks worth, of course...)

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    2. I bought my daughter a Holt Renfrew suit -- sheath dress, jacket, and pants -- to celebrate a first professional position, perhaps 8 or 10 years ago. We were lucky to get it fitted for alterations by their best Seamstress (at least, so the SAs assured us) -- it was $120 (and this a decade ago, remember) but wow! worth every last fucking penny! She wore that for years, may still hold it in reserve. . . fit as if it had been custom made. She has noticeable booty but a tiny waist, fairly small on top, so especially for the sheath, we're talking two sizes in one piece. Heavy-handed alterations -- made at one or two spots only -- would never have worked. For this, numerous seams were opened and adjusted, so facings, of course, had to be pulled back, then stitched into place again. Especially with the jacket on, the sheath looked okay as it was, off the rack, but after the alterations were done? Perfection!

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    3. OK, this is very good to hear. Puts it all into perspective. Mind you, the idea that I have all of the machinery and knowledge to do these alterations for myself makes me feel cavalier. On the flip side, I don't want to do alterations. I can barely stand to do them at the best of times, let alone when a garment is new.

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    4. And if you have a good alterationist, you have someone with that requisite 1000 hours of experience that it takes to really master what is a complex set of skills -- making her mistakes on someone else's garments, long ago, rather than your gorgeous new suit.

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  6. I love that Theory suit! I don't have a lifestyle that requires anything so professional, but would love something like this for conference presentations. The jacket is so great, the way the lapels run into the pockets -- fab!

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    1. Thanks F! It's a very flattering jacket - it's not aggressive but is quietly assertive.

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  7. Buying fabric on-line from the States was a rookie error of mine. I questioned the amount once when it arrived because I could see it cost much less than they charged me. I didn't even like it when it arrived but it would have cost me more to send it back. Lesson learned and I now rely on the traditional method. I've found what is available is quite limiting. I look at RTW sometimes and wish I had their fabric supplier! I certainly don't have gorgeous knits like this available to me - I love the second one.

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    1. I just got the fabric and I will post on it shortly. OMG, what a pain in the ass. Will not be doing this again. Really.

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  8. That Theory suit is navy??! Perfection. You will wear it ALL the time. I'd wear that jacket with jeans on the weekends, too.

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    1. Thanks! The jacket does look really chic with denim. I'm very pleased with it.

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  9. I like suits and wore them from time to time when I was working in offices and such. A well tailored and fitted jacket really kicks it and is worth having no matter who did the work, so good score to you.

    On the fabric I've been really unsure about buying online because, well, I'm in NZ and most eStores are on other continents. Can you imagine the postage rates? Yes. Well. That being said I couldn't agree more about modal. Its GORGEOUS and I buy whenever I see it in my local stores.

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    1. Thank you! I can only imagine how challenging it is to online shop from NZ. I shudder at the postage charges - and all the retailers who say they don't ship outside of North America and Europe. But you do get to live in NZ, a most beautiful place.

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