Saturday, March 26, 2011

Shout Out to the Experts: Finishing Fabric Edges Around Zippers

Hello Sewists:

Y'all know how I hate inserting zippers. Nonetheless I keep on with them, invisible and "regular", though invisibles seem easier to complete without utter crisis. I don't know what my issue is. I've read and watched dozens of tutorials on working with both varieties. They all make zips look like a piece of cake. Whatever. This post isn't about how I look for any opportunity to use a) stretch fabric or b) snaps.

This post asks the question: How do you make your zippers look pretty from the inside?

When I sew, first off, I serge all exposed fabric edges - including the fabric edges that will abut the zipper. Then I install the zipper (invisible or regular). At this point - if I haven't completely lost it - the zipper is secure, but it looks kind of crappy-tacked-on atop my serged edges.

Obvs, if I line the garment, the problem is solved. Likewise, if I choose to use binding along the seam that the zipper's inserted on. Alas, 2 bound edges when the rest of garment edges are serged looks kind of stupid, no? And binding every edge is way too labour intensive for (let's say) a casual summer dress.

What do you do to nicely finish fabric edges around zippers? Do you simply leave the zipper alone and think it looks fine? Do you serge over the zipper outer edge and affix it to the outer edge of the fabric (which you then serge at the same time i.e. after you've inserted the zipper and sewn up the seam the along which the zipper sits?)

Please do tell.

16 comments:

  1. Ooooo, good question. I don't have the answer but I'll keep checking back in hopes that someone will have a good one. This problem plagues me too. My current gored skirt is french seamed on every seam but the one with the zipper, and it drives me CRAZY. If it didn't take so much fabric to line it, I'd just cover it all up so it wouldn't annoy me to see it. :sigh: Obsessive much?

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  2. I leave mine looking crappy, but then I am borderline zipper phobic and still haven't attempted an invisible zipper. My crappy zipper foot probably doesn't help...

    The real question, though, is how does your RTW handle it? I don't have a lot of RTW with zippers other than pants, but most of them seem to just leave the zip exposed. Even some of then lined ones.

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  3. Andrea: Have you moved yet??

    T: I thought of looking at my zippered RTW but all of it is either lined or lapped (i.e. jeans). I don't have any zipper tops. There must be something in my vast wardrobe.

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  4. What a fabulous question - I sure wish I knew the answer. If you get some words of wisdom, could you perhaps do a post on it? Surely there are more of us who would be interested in making our zips look great.

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  5. I'd serge it all together, but that's because I'm not the "bound edges" kind of girl.

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  6. Not that I'm an expert--just thought I'd throw that out there. ;-)

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  7. I leave in June, but all our things get packed in May. Woo hoo for living out of a suitcase. I don't know if I should bring my sewing machine and use the converters (I've heard horror stories about people frying their machines) or just buying a cheap one to use while overseas.

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  8. SGP: Will do. And check back for more comments on this post!

    CGC: Thank you. I've never actually tried that, but it might be the way I go next time. I just didn't know if it would work or look weird. Glad to know it's a technique and not something I'm making up!

    Andrea: Oh, I'd buy a cheapie! Don't take risks.

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  9. I'll most likely do that. Besides, it's going to take nearly three months for all our things to get there! I won't be working, and I can't go three months without a job and no sewing machine. I would drive myself insane. You can bet that there will be some fabric stuffed into my carry on bag. :)

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  10. OK, I had to go and look at all of my zippers to see what I've done! First, I tend to line my skirts and dresses just because I hate seeing the unfinished insides. And one of my favorite sewing tasks is slipstitching the lining to the zipper tape and making it all tidy! I have a few things that aren't lined though. On a few unlined skirts I used french seams (or serging.) I stopped the french seam at the bottom of the zipper tape by clipping the seam allowances. Then, after I inserted the zipper I tucked the raw edges of the seam allowance under the zipper tape and slip stitched the folded edge to the zipper tape. I don't mind seeing the tape, just the raw edges.

    On one of my shirts I did a contrasting placket and I love the look. Again, you can see the zipper tape, but that doesn't bother me.

    I hate linking to my own blog in someone else's comments, but here's the post of the shirt I'm talking about with a photo of the placket...

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  11. There is a fabulous way to finish the top edge of any zipper with a facing that is all done by machine. I will illustrate on my blog as I'll use the technique to finish the dress I'm about to start sewing. However, you can find the technique in 101 Sewing Secrets (part of the Singer Sewing Reference Library) - p. 68-71 covers both a lapped and centred zipper, but it works for invisible too.

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  12. Patty: Good info. Can you believe I've never tackled French seams? I should get on that soon...

    KayY: Thanks - I look forward to seeing your post.

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  13. I've always done this the old fashioned way on a straight stitch machine -- baste then edge stitch. I am curious about the serger possibilities and hope you'll post photos!

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  14. "Do you simply leave the zipper alone and think it looks fine?"

    Yup! ;)

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  15. I usually line because I'm freakish that way. Or use a facing. I don't mind binding edges, but hate binding around zippers so I would go for bare before I would go that far.

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  16. Susan: My serging idea didn't work so well. So it may be back to your method :-)

    Melissa: Fair enough. Maybe that's the best system.

    Mardel: I'm trying to imagine a facing around a zipper...

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